Where the small brown espresso beans come from
Every espresso is coffee, but not every coffee is espresso
Contrary to popular belief, espresso is not a separate plant species, i.e. it is not coffee that comes from the ‘Coffea Espressica’ plant. Rather, it is a coffee that has been roasted darker. So far, so simple – and then again not, because espresso actually involves a special preparation process, as the name suggests, which is carried out ‘quickly’ and ‘under pressure’. Incidentally, it was originally called ‘expresso’, because the first preparation concept leading to espresso originated in France. It should be noted that at that time, the focus was on fresh, individual preparation. The coffee was prepared ‘exprès pour quelqu'un’ (expressly for someone). It was only later that a pressure process was developed that allowed this individual fresh preparation without having to accept long waiting times. On old roasting machines, the term ‘expresso’ is still used to describe dark roasting.
A dark-roasted coffee produced as filter coffee or using a leaching process is certainly not espresso and also has completely different taste characteristics, i.e. it has a different flavour profile. Then again, it should be borne in mind that there is no single roast depth that characterises espresso as such. In Italy, there is already a north-south divide in terms of roast colour, with light roasts in the north and dark roasts in the south. Naples and Sicily compete for the highest levels of coffee ‘carbonisation’. The only thing that really helps here is sugar – zucchero, per favore! But maybe I just haven't found the right approach to this coffee – or rather espresso – yet, which to me tastes something like the road surface between Split and Banja Luka. At least, that's how I imagine the road tastes – where it doesn't have too many potholes. In addition, the processing of the coffee plays an important role in deciding whether it is better to roast the green coffee as espresso or filter coffee. A dry-processed coffee (i.e. a coffee that has been dried in its cherry) has different roasting characteristics than washed coffees (which have been dried as parchment coffees). Of course, it is necessary to distinguish between processes such as ‘pulped natural’, ‘semi-washed’ or ‘fully washed’. The first of the three washed processes has the highest sweetness, while the last has the most pronounced acidity. And last but not least, it is important to consider which coffee forms the basis for the espresso. Whether it is a blend, a single variety of Arabica coffee, pure Canephora coffee or a blend of Arabica and Canephora (known as Robusta) also makes a big difference. Liberica coffees, which are not available in regular coffee shops, achieve the most impressive body.
So what are the basics of espresso? How can espresso be understood and how can these different types of espresso be prepared correctly? Only Rumpelstiltskin could spin straw into gold. A coffee that is not very sweet will not be easy to roast to sweetness. Also, only existing sugar can be transformed into caramel – caramel can only be made from sugar, and if there is no sugar, it is difficult to form caramel. And all this only works at temperatures above 150 °C – although the pure heating of sugar is not a Maillard reaction. This only takes place in conjunction with proteins.
Of course: espresso is not a specific plant species. Rather, it is a coffee that has been roasted darker.
Furthermore, the cultivated varieties influence the coffee taste through their yield (ratio of cherry coffee weight to green coffee weight), i.e. the amount of pulp and the sugar it contains. In addition to the taste from the cultivar, terroir acids play a major role. On haematite soils (soils with a high iron content), coffees develop very balanced, rounded acids, such as cassis, peach, wild berries or blackberries.
The espresso acts as resistance to the pump pressure or the pressure built up by steam or a hand lever. The resistance effect is formed by the surface area of the coffee, the amount of ground coffee, the contact pressure and the fat content of the coffee. The most significant influence here is the surface area of the ground coffee (i.e. the grind size). Grinding for espresso increases the surface area by a factor of around 120. Such factors – i.e. a 120-fold increase – are inconceivable with the amount of ground coffee (with 8 g, it would have to be 1200 g). In the third roasting phase, 150 °C – 199 °C, which can also be described as the actual roasting, the Maillard reaction and Strecker degradation take place. The beans take on their typical brown colour and the aromas are formed. In the fourth phase, from 200 °C onwards, the surface is smoothed. This is particularly important for protecting the aromas. A surface that is too rough and not closed results in a significantly shorter shelf life for the coffee. Roasting for too long reduces the sweetness and increases the bitterness of the coffee. When it comes to preparation, it helps to remember that espresso is resistance.
The pump pressure or the pressure of over 960 g, corresponding to 1,920 kg at a contact pressure of 16 kg). To obtain an ideal espresso, the following can be summarised: Coffees with a high basic sweetness and a natural fruity note are ideal as green coffee and should not be kept in the drying phase for too long if the coffee – in this case espresso – is to be enjoyed with milk. For pure espresso, the roasting profile should be extended slightly in this phase in favour of a well-developed sweetness. Prepared according to the rules of the art in a well-adjusted espresso machine, nothing stands in the way of espresso enjoyment. Please serve in a pre-heated porcelain cup of a suitable shape.
By the way: there is no such thing as ‘Coffea Cappuccinica’ – i.e. a cappuccino-style coffee. It is also espresso. However, after its extraction – hopefully carried out correctly – it is topped up with frothed milk. Ideally, this espresso will then have well-defined fruity notes and a rounded acidity, which develops into rounded, balanced caramel notes in the milk (with its natural sweetness).
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Dr Steffen Schwarz is an internationally recognised expert in the field of coffee, an entrepreneur and a lecturer.
As the founder of the Coffee Consulate in Mannheim, he has for many years been dedicated to the training and further education of professionals across the entire coffee value chain. His work combines scientific insights with practical experience and covers topics such as coffee quality, sensory analysis, sustainable cultivation, and the processing and preparation of coffee.
Drawing on his many years of expertise, he advises companies worldwide, develops training programmes for the coffee industry and is committed to the responsible and quality-oriented handling of coffee. As an author, Dr Steffen Schwarz conveys complex specialist knowledge in an accessible and practical way, offering his readers new perspectives on one of the world’s most fascinating luxury foods.